Biking in a Winter Wonderland
Okay, I'm a nut. After my initial bike ride, the temperature has dropped a little bit. And my wimpy bike light didn't add up for the deep winter nights here in Anchorage.
I made another trip to my bike shop, Paramount Bicycles in south Anchorage. They're right next to Ace Hardware in a little strip mall. I walked in yesterday and there was all variety of bike nuts just like me--trying to stay warm in the freezing cold.
Most of them also are frustrated skiers like me. I opted for a helmet-mounted light. It's not a light, really. It's a high-powered LED street-light the size of a tube of lipstick. I'm pretty sure it will halt all but the most determined moose in its tracks. Cars now give me new respect when I look straight at them and blind them. High beams? HAHAHAA....I laugh at them.
BUt what about my freezing hands and feet? Well, for my hands, there are some "Pogeys" designed and manufactured in Fairbanks (figures). They're like big down booties that fit over your handlebars. Crazy, but effective.
I have not yet gotten any booties for my shoes. So far I haven't needed them. But I'm thinking about making a little hat from aluminum foil. Frankly, I don't know how I could look any stupider! But it's great to ride the trails at night. And I'm warm and toasty wearing every ounce of clothing I own.
So--we'll see you on the trails!
Dashing through the snow (on my bike!)
Dashing through the snow.
Those of us who live in Alaska love the winter. Some of us get out on snowmachines and take off across the countryside. Heck, there's even a race called the "Iron Dog" which traces the Iditarod from Anchorage to Nome. In fact, our very own "First Dude" has won the race many times. Todd Palin is married to our Governor, Sarah Palin.
Others live to ski. I'm one of those folks. Here in Anchorage, we have a jillion cross-country ski trails. Many of them are lit--so it's easy to slap on the boards after work and do the "Lighted Loop". Even so, I have a head lamp in case the lights are out.
But lately, there really is not enough snow to ski the cross-country trails. Alpine skiers have had a little better luck. Alyeska Resort has the top of the mountain open. And even Hilltop Ski Area here in Anchorage has enough snow to keep the lift running.
I finally broke down and bought studded tires for my bike. Insane, I know. However, the last time we lacked snow, I tried ice skating. It wasn't pretty.
So, these are some pretty high-tech tires. They're "Nokian". Finnish. The spikes are carbide--not your normal finishing screw. Here's a picture:
http://www.suomityres.fi/ext294.html
After changing the tires this afternoon, I went on a field test and was impressed. Many of the trails are covered with a thin layer of snow--but there are some bare spots where there's nothing but ice. My new studded tires handled it just fine.
So--it's a new age for winter sports here in Alaska. Let the games begin. Next on the list for supplies are "booties" for your hands that slip over the handlebars. Then, there are the lights. I'm interested in getting some good illumination for those evening rides.
We'll keep you posted. Watch for photos soon! -s
Comings and Goings: New York-Anchorage $395rt
Lots of folks are planning their trips to Alaska right now. And those of us in Alaska are looking to plot out some trips to the sun as well.
I waste more time in front of the computer than anyone I know trying to come up with good air fares. Here are some real zingers:
Between Anchorage and Charlotte, NC: Just under $400 roundtrip, including taxes. That's incredible
Between Anchorage and New York City: Just under $400 roundtrip, including taxes. Insane, considering it's a few hundred extra bucks to travel to any of the surrounding cities (Boston, Philadelphia, Wash., DC, etc.).
Between Anchorage and Colorado Springs, CO: Around $395 roundtrip, including taxes.
Lately, it's tougher to draw a solid bead on the exact cost--but you get the idea. C-h-e-a-p.
It's possible to dig these fares up using your garden-variety travel booking engine, such as Travelocity, Expedia or Orbitz. But here's the trick: finding the seat. That's where your travel agent comes in handy. Sometimes my travel agent, Jamie Atwood over at USTravel in Anchorage, can actually trick the system--using techniques that are unavailable on the web-based travel booking engines.
Face it: there are tricks to every trade. Jamie and the crew there in Anchorage spend all day booking travel. Along the way, they've learned what works and what doesn't. Depending on the connections, you'd be wise to listen to her if she recommends a different airline for a few more bucks.
Remember, your travel agent typically will charge you $35-$40 to write a ticket. That's the price of poker these days. Travelocity charges $7. Alaska Airlines charges $10 if you order by phone. It's free if you use their website.
Call Jamie at (800)544-2217 if you have questions.
We sat down last week and cam up with some great wintertime fares to Europe form Anchorage: as low as $500 roundtrip including taxes.
Here's another winner: during the summertime, we have flights from Condor German Airlines that operate nonstop between Anchorage or Fairbanks and Frankfurt, Germany. Right now, you can swoop in and nab tickets for less than $700 roundtrip. Nonstop to Europe! Great deals.
Lately, I started quoting all fares inclusive of taxes. Why? Well, the Euro-fares for $500 (Anchorage-Frankfurt in the winter)? They're just $248 roundtrip not including taxes. But the fuel surcharges and fees more than double the fare. It's silly. So now I just talk about the actual amount that you'll have to pay. I hate it when airlines "unbundle" their prices. Jeez.
We're always on the prowl for great air fares. Let me know if you find some!
My First Alaska Wilderness Thanksgiving
My first Alaska wilderness Thanksgiving. It's a great story. I had been in Anchorage for about four years. My friends, Carl Evertsbusch and Fran Maori, landed a caretaking job at a lodge on Lake Clark. The area recently had become a national park.
Even so, there were not a lot of visitors at the end of November. Hardly high season. So, when Fran and Carl invited "all comers" to Thanksgiving dinner in the wilderness, I had to think for a minute. But a minute was all it took.
My roommate, Meg, and I called an air taxi operator over at Merrill Field (Anchorage's city airport) to fly us out to the bustling hub of Port Alsworth. Oh, it's the head office for the Park and it's where the Coast Guard has a few boats to patrol the area. Again--it's late November and it was about 5F (above!).
Carl and Fran met us at the airport and we loaded our gear, along with some fresh produce and other Thanksgiving fixin's, down to the boat. This is where it gets funny.
"Where are the life jackets," I asked.
"Well, you're sitting on them," said Carl. Here we are in our 14-foot outboard skiff, zipping across some serious water to the other side of the lake.
"Since the water's so cold, the cushions are best used to warm your butt on the way over," he added with a smirk. "If you want to put it on, it will be easier for the Coast Guard to find your body."
"Heh-heh" I chuckled.....nervously.
The ride over was great. I was quite thankful. OK...VERY thankful for a successful crossing!
We unpacked our gear, along with our cross-country skis. There was about a foot of snow on the ground.
We walked up toward the lodge--it was a huge A-frame with giant windows looking over the lake. "Wow," I thought. "What a great spot!"
Actually, we walked right past that giant lodge, down to a squat cabin that was sort of sunken into the ground. There was a plume of smoke coming from the chimney. A-ha. Home, sweet hovel.
As it turned out, of course, the little cabin is a darn site easier to heat in midwinter. That cuts down on the axe time--frees up more time for moose hunting and cross-country skiing.
Fran and Carl were thrilled to see us--and everyone got busy getting set up for the big Thanksgiving feast.
First, though, the neighbors skied down from their cabin--about four miles north of the cabin. A little mini-celebration ensued and then we decided to strike out for a little hunting trip/ski journey while the sun still was up.
It's great to take the guns for a walk--that's exactly what we did. Moose: 1. White Man: 0. And we were bushwacking on the skis, too. There are no groomed trails on the north side of Lake Clark. I can attest to that!
So everyone came back to the cabin and we worked together to whip up a wonderful Thanksgiving Feast--with all the trimmings. We had to remember to bring in the ice cream to thaw out a little before we served it. Big hit!
We slept in the next day. There was no football to watch, of course. we got up and went for another ski (sans guns) to work off the big turkey feast. It was an altogether lazy day. Later, the neighbors came down on their snowmachine for leftovers.
The next morning, a brisk wind stirred up the surf on the lake--not a good sign since we had to make the crossing back to Port Alsworth.
But everyone put on a brave face and piled into the boat. Carl tried to start the motor. Nothing. The neighbor tried. Nothing.
Everybody out.
Carl pulled the motor off the boat and took it inside to warm it up. After about an hour, we tried again--and the motor reluctantly came to life. It was about 1F (above). Wind was from the northwest at about 10 knots...gusting to 25 knots. About 2.5-foot seas. Remember, we're in a 14-foot open skiff.
So--we just had to make a run for it. About 400 yards into our trip, the motor started coughing and spitting.....Carl had to do quite a bit of coaxing to keep the boat going. Suffice it to say we were about one or two waves away from swamping...and death.
Nobody said a thing. Personally, I do not believe I've said so many prayers so quickly.
Well, we made it back to Port Alsworth. OMG, was I THANKFUL. The bumpy ride through Lake Clark Pass...a notoriously dangerous air route even on good days...was a walk in the park!
I look forward to returning to Lake Clark soon. Perhaps in the summer. But it was a wonderful Alaska Thanksgiving!
I hope you and your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving.
--Scott
PS--I posted some photos of my second wilderness Thanksgiving...a hunting trip my son and I took to Afognak Island. That's another story--but the pictures are really nice!
Winter is here (Finally!)
Yesterday, I took the dogs for a walk on the trails around Hilltop Ski Area. There was about an inch of snow on top of frozen mud. The dogs did very well. Me? Well, I slipped and fell two or three times. 'Tis the season to get out the strap-on crampons I have for the trail.
Actually, I cannot wait to get the skis out.
In the meantime, tho', I'm out at the airport waiting for a jet plane. Of course, I'm flying on Alaska Airlines. And, of course, the flight is delayed. It's one of those creeping delays. You know--first it's delayed 30 minutes, then 45 minutes...and so forth. I'm sitting right out by the gate. The flight is supposed to leave at 4:20pm. Now, it's scheduled to leave at 5:03pm. Hmmm.
Last year, I broke down and bought a membership to Alaska's Board Room here in Anchorage. I don't travel that much, but lately I've been falling asleep or waking up on planes a bunch. And the lounge at the airport is nice. For one thing, they've got free wireless. Then there's the *hick* free beer.
But part of the appeal for me is to see the tarmac. Right now, all the crews are out in the graders scraping down the runways. Anchorage International Airport has some of the best snow-removal crews in the world. No kidding. In fact, the airport doesn't ever close because of snow. Oh--there's the occasional fog that rolls in. But the crew at the airport gets the snow away in short order.
Now that winter's here, it's easier to plan our winter activities. We know about Hatcher Pass Lodge. They've got some new snow up there and Hatcher Pass is a glorious setting for cross-country skiing.
But what about a gourmet weekend in the wilderness? That's what they do at Winterlake Lodge . Carl and Kirsten Dixon have a lovely lodge at Finger Lake on the Iditarod Trail. I went out there in January a couple of years ago. I met Mark McDonald and his wife Kat out there. It never got about -5 degrees (F). While we were there, we spent some time on snowmachines clearing the trail for the Iditarod Sled Dog Race. It's a glorious spot to spend an Alaska weekend!
In Fairbanks, you should visit Chena Hot Springs. Just the idea of hot springs amid the -40F Fairbanks weather is enough to pique your curiousity , n'est-ce pas? Check it out! Me? I'm just anxious to strap on my skis. We'll see you on the trails!