Talkeetna-bound
Okay, I admit it: it's getting chilly. We arrived yesterday in Talkeetna for a flightseeing trip of Mt. McKinley. Honestly, it was about 41 degrees. I immediately returned to the car and retrieved my long-sleeved long-underwear shirt that I stashed there last week. Thank goodness I brought my GLOVES! And my hat. Don't go ANYWHERE in Alaska at any time without your gloves and your hat. And, yes, I had my Leatherman, too. Even though we were going on a flight, I did NOT have to pass through the TSA checkpoint. Whew.
Our pilot, Deb, flies for Talkeetna Aero Services
Owners Eric and Geri Denkewalter are celebrating three anniversaries today: 25 years in business, 40 years of marriage and the 61st anniversary of Eric's birth! Two of their three kids were there in the office when we checked in...they were waiting on their son, who was driving up from Anchorage. Great folks.
Eric's brother, Paul, runs a great outfit in Anchorage called Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking. I've known Paul for about 30 years--it's a great shop of skiers, hikers and outdoorsy types. But their real specialty is outfitting mountain climbers...then Eric and his crew fly them up to Mt. McKinley.
Deb was piloting a Cessna 185, with room enough for me and videographer Scott Slone. Scott shoots for Alaska Podshow, which is a "video podcast" about Alaska. Check his site around Sept. 20 and watch the episode on Talkeetna.
If you haven't taken a flightseeing trip around McKinley, make plans to do so. We didn't land on the mountain today, since the snow is kinda crusty in most places. But the flight itself is fabulous. I've posted some pics. We flew up the Ruth Glacier and over the "Mountain House", built by Don Sheldon. Then we flew r-e-a-l-l-y close to some c-r-a-g-g-y peaks and came back down the Kahiltna Glacier, where the climbers have their base camp during the season (it ended in late July this year). FYI, almost 500 climbers filed to summit the mountain this season--about half of them made it to the top. That, according to Talkeetna locals, is about average.
We opted for the small plane today so we could duck and weave with the still camera and video camera and get the shots we wanted. But Eric and Geri also offer Summit flights in their pressurized, twin-engine Navajo aircraft. You can actually fly over the summit of McKinley! K-e-w-l. And, yes, everyone gets oxygen.
Back on the ground, Scott and I went to get some incredible food at "Mountain High Pizza" in beautiful downtown Talkeetna. We opted for the Calzone, which was big enough to feed both of us! It had all sorts of goodies in it: sun dried tomatoes, roasted garlic, lots of cheese and some Italian meat I cannot pronounce. Just like a pizza turnover. It was just what the doctor ordered, although we did have to get some strong coffee afterwards to help wash it down. HA! Our favorite coffee, of course, is Kaladi Brothers. There was a little coffee shop next door that served it. Delicious little pick-me-up!
We finished just in time to zip over to Mahay's Riverboat Service, where we opted for the two-hour "Three Rivers Tour. We talked to Sandy in the office, who showed us all sorts of options, including a Devil's Canyon Tour, some fishing trips and other longer river trips.
Check my pictures for a few shots of the cool "Talkeetna Queen" riverboat we took up the Susitna River. It's got three big-block V-8 engines, any of which would be the envy of the pickiest Corvette owner! Two of them are 454s, along with one upgraded 496 c.i. engine. Whoo-boy.
We started out on the Talkeetna River, made a sweeping turn upstream on the Susitna River and passed the confluence with the Chulitna River.
Our on-board naturalist pointed out the types of trees, signs of ice damage and beavers along the shore and some of the distinguishing features of the river. He also gave us a brief history of the Denaina People who lived here prior to the White Man's arrival around 1900.
In fact, the tour includes a stop at an old trappers cabin, where we get a look at a traditional lean-to and learn about how the Denaina people kept food for the winter, how they hunted and the tools they used. Everyone had a good time.
Honestly, I wanted to stick around for dinner in Talkeetna, but we had to push on for our next adventure. The next time I see Talkeetna, it probably will be blanketed with a fine layer of snow. There is snow in the hills around Anchorage right now. Winter's coming!
The Stik-een River, near Wrangell
There is a mighty river in Southeast Alaska. Its delta is 25 miles wide. It's the fastest navigable stream in North America. The Stik-een River served as a trade route for the Native Alaskans who have lived here for thousands of years. In the early 1900s, the river was part of an elaborate supply chain for Gold Rush miners. Later, in the 1940s, supplies for the Alcan Highway moved up from Wrangell to Telegraph Creek, British Columbia. From there, supplies were shipped on the road system to Watson Lake, in the Yukon Territory.
Our host was Jim Leslie, with Alaskawaters.com .
Jim and is family has traveled upriver for years. In fact, Jim's father-in-law, Richard Stokes, has traveled up the river for to hunt and fish since 1932. Then, he rowed upstream from Wrangell!
Wow. Things have changed. Once you've experienced the power of the current in the Stik-een River, you'll understand it's no small feat to row. Wow.
We stopped at what once was a fueling station for the sternwheelers. These paddlewheelers took several days to get upstream--and they needed plenty of wood to make the journey. That's what they collected at the station.
These days, most of the stations are fish-monitoring stations. There are some salmon fisheries, though. Most of the salmon harvest is shipped down to Wrangell for processing and export.
Up in Telegraph Creek, you can stay at the Stik-een Riversong Lodge. Dan and his family have the best Philly Steak sandwiches in the world. Wash them back with a slice of apple or blueberry pie. I don't know about you. I now am a better man for eating them--and a bigger one too!
Part of Alaska Waters' tour is to take a jetboat ride up the Stik-een River. Above Telegraph Creek, the river narrows into a swift chute. It's class V whitewater--and it's a real Thrill!
Along the way, we stopped to hike around in Mess Creek and the Great Glacier. This really is a wilderness adventure. Don't miss it!
Prince of Wales Island
This is the story of a trip I've wanted to do for years. We traveled from Ketchikan to Hollis, on Prince of Wales Island. From there, we traveled to Craig, Klawock and Coffman Cove. We were within striking distance of Thorne Bay--and we made a side trip to Naukati. We continued from Prince of Wales Island up to Wrangell.
"What's the big deal?" you may ask. Well, here's the trick: most access to Prince of Wales Island has been restricted to the millionaires and billionaires who frequent the fancy fishing lodges like Waterfall Resort
Oh, don't get me wrong. I know Ken Dole, the owner of Waterfall. He does a great job--and I know several folks who still are working on their first million who go there every year.
But here's my point: things have changed. You can take the ferry twice a day during the summer from Ketchikan over to Hollis. How? The Interisland Ferry Authority
plies the waters between the islands. It's cheap, too. Pedestrians can go for as little as $32.
But here's the deal: I recommend you get a car in Ketchikan or Craig and drive around the island. I have several friends who really love fishing the ROAD SYSTEM on Prince of Wales for Steelhead and Salmon. The creeks along the road system, which includes 1,100 miles of roads, are loaded with fish!
In Craig, we stayed with Bill Eggen at the Oceanview Bed and Breakfast. Bill is a gracious host--and he's got a great view of the ocean.
We had a cup of coffee at the Voyageur Coffee Shop in Craig. They've got free wireless, so we checked our email.
For breakfast, we went to Ruth Ann's restaurant. We actually were supposed to stay there...they have a little hotel. But, the waitress takes the reservations, so they got messed up. They flunked the hotel test, but HIGH MARKS for breakfast. I had the crab omelette. Delicious. Everyone had a great breakfast. Don't miss it.
In nearby Klawock, make a point to stop in at the Totem Park. Honestly, there's a skill to reading the totem poles. I don't have it. My guides, Donna and Wilma, were much more proficient. Regardless, it's worth it to see the totems and the view from the top of the hill.
We drove from Klawock to the caves near El Capitan. Make plans in advance to meet up with the park rangers for one of their thrice-daily tours. We were late, so we missed it. Regardless, we poked around in the caves. G-r-e-a-t fun! You can learn about the geology of the area--about how the caves are formed from the limestone. Near the El Capitan caves is the Beaver Falls campground, which gives visitors a better idea of how caves are formed.
We spent the night in Coffman Cove at the Whalewatcher's Bed-n-Breakfast. We picked this place because it's close to the ferry terminal. The ferry runs four days a week (Fri.-Mon.) between Coffman Cove and Wrangell.
Hosts Nan and Joe have a wonderful location right on the water. These folks built a beautiful home right on the water for visitors. Check it out. It's great.
We took the IFA ferry over to Wrangell from Prince of Wales Island. Had a great time. We barely had time to gather our things before taking off on a tour of the Stikine River with Alaska Waters . The Stikine River is the fastest-flowing navigable stream in North America. Jim Leslie, the co-owner of Alaska Waters, has a mighty-fine jetboat to make the trip, the Chutine Warrior. Oh, this is a fast boat. We zipped up about 60 miles from Wrangell. We got a good look at Shakes Glacier. We had a chance to cast some fishing lines for some salmon. Wow! We saw the Canadians counting fish. We saw the hot springs.There's a bunch of action on the river!
Back in Wrangell, stay at the Stikine Inn. It's right on the water--handy to the ferry terminal and to charter boats.
I rented a bike from Klondike Bikes and went for a long ride. They've got some nice bikes for rent!
It's possible to take the IFA on to Petersburg. Mind you, the ferry terminal is about 25 miles from town. But at least it's "road miles". HA!
There's plenty more to see up the Stikine River. In fact, I'm headed up to Telegraph Creek next week. It's 165 miles upstream from Wrangell. I'll give you a full report!
Oh, I had our 16-year-old son on the trip with me. He loved it. We saw bear, deer and birds on the road!
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Do you love to fish?
Owners Jon Faulkner and Steve Agni are retrofitting what once was an old salmon cannery into a destination resort. Honestly, it's a tall order. They've done an admirable job refinishing some of the old bunkhouses. The beds are comfy and the rooms are clean. Some rooms feature private baths, but several rooms feature shared baths/showers, etc. It's OK, though. The history of the place is pretty cool. See photo.
In addition to the rooms, there's a good restaurant, Sockeye's. I had the halibut. Drew, my son, chomped on a burger which he declared was "the best burger I've ever had". Jeez. From a 16-year-old, that's a ringing endorsement. See photo.
There's also an on-site fish processing plant, as well as an old warehouse that they're using as an "artist's mall". I've bought some nice pottery there for my wife, Christy.
But it's the fishing that draws folks to the Kenai River. And right now, the dipnet season is in full-swing. You have to be an Alaska resident to take advantage of this fishery. For those of us who live here, it's a great way to stock the freezer. You can either use the big nets from the shore, or net them from a boat. The front desk has a little map, I think, that shows where you can fish from shore. You can choose to fish either on the shore of Cook Inlet, which is about a five-minute walk from check-in, or along the banks of the Kenai River itself.
Otherwise, the traditional rod-n-reel fishing still is great upstream from the mouth of the river.
Drew went with the Tower Rock Lodge folks and caught a beautiful 41-pound king salmon. See photo.
In fact, Drew and the guide were on the phone while we were broadcasting our travel radio show on KFQD (each Sat. morning 9-10am Alaska time ) when the fish took the bait. He actually pulled the fish in ON THE AIR.
The Tower Rock people were thrilled for Drew. He let the staff keep half the fish for dinner. Then we flew back to Anchorage on Era Aviation and drove out to Big Lake for dinner with friends.
Drew really was proud of his fish--and helped cook it up for friends that evening. Actually, we could only choke down about a quarter of the meat--so we munched on it all week long. In omelets. At lunch. Dinner every night.
That fish died for us.
I guess it's time for you to go get one of your very own, huh?
While you're in Kenai, swing by the Kenai Visitor's Center on the other side of the river. They're having a cool art show: "Sticks and Stones: Alaska Structure". Also at the center they have some cool displays of the diaries of Capt. James Cook. You remember Captain Cook, don't you? Of course, that's who "Cook Inlet" is named after. One of modern history's original frequent travelers.
Take a stroll through "old town Kenai" with a small Russian Orthodox Church and some other historic buildings. Ask for a map at the visitor's center. Of course, the highlight of any visit to Olde Towne Kee-nye is a stop at Veronica's. Nice little cafe. Tell 'em Scott sent you.